A: Yes, the water delivered to you is safe to drink. We have a crew of field and laboratory personnel who sample and test the water every day to make sure the water is safe for all uses. We have about 300 monitoring locations throughout the City. Testing shows that our water meets or exceeds all State and Federal drinking water standards. If you would like to see the most recent analyses of our water, go to the Drinking Water Quality Report.
However, old plumbing or improperly maintained water treatment devices may adversely affect the quality of the water coming from the taps inside your home or business. If you’re worried about something like lead, a lead test will typically cost around $50. If you had your water tested for everything we test for, it would cost well over $3,000. If you feel you need to have your water tested, you can obtain references for qualified laboratories by contacting the California State Water Resources Control Board, Laboratory Accreditation Program at (916) 323-3431.
If you still want to treat your water, a list of National Sanitation Foundation (NSF) approved water treatment devices and plumbing materials is available by contacting NSF Consumer Affairs or 1-800-673-6275.
A: The water delivered to you does not need additional treatment. But your plumbing may adversely affect the quality of water coming from the tap inside your home or business. If your plumbing is causing a water quality problem, a filter can improve the water quality at the tap. A better solution may be to consider replacing your waterlines.
As with most products, some filters work better than others. There are many types of filters available. Each type is designed to remove different substances. Knowing what is in your water will help you choose the right water treatment device. Most contaminants listed on water treatment devices are not in the water delivered to you. View our Drinking Water Quality Report to see what is and isn’t in the water.
If you choose to filter your water, there are several independent resources available to assist you in choosing a filter that works properly and will meet your needs. Consumer Reports Magazine occasionally will compare types of water filters and explain which types remove which constituents. They also compare various models and report on which ones work the best. A list of National Sanitation Foundation (NSF) approved water treatment devices is available by contacting the NSF Consumer Affairs or 1-800-673-6275. The Pacific Water Quality Association is an association of manufacturers and marketers of water treatment devices and can also be reached at (760) 664-7348. Or consult the yellow pages for a seller of treatment devices in your area.
NOTE: If you choose a water filter, you should follow the installation and maintenance instructions very carefully. An improperly installed or poorly maintained filter can adversely affect the quality of your water.
A: No. According to reports like Bottled Water: Sparkling Hype at a Premium Price, bottled waters are not necessarily any safer or healthier than tap water. This and other independent studies of bottled waters found that despite the attractive packaging of bottled water, the product is not necessarily better than the water out of the tap.
We have a crew of field and laboratory personnel who sample and test the water every day of the year to ensure its safety. Our water is tested at about 300 locations around the City, for over 200 different constituents. The water delivered to you meets or exceeds all State and Federal drinking water standards. If you would like to see the results of our most recent analyses, go to the Drinking Water Quality Report.
For an analysis of bottled water, contact the manufacturer of the brand you use and request a complete analysis. By law, the source of the water and a telephone number must be on the bottle’s label. You can also check the California Department of Public Health (State Health) site for more information on bottled water.
A: Yes. We have a crew of field and laboratory personnel who sample and test the water every day of the year. The water is tested with varying frequency at about 300 locations around the City, for over 200 different constituents. The amount of each constituent allowed in the water and the frequency of testing varies greatly and is regulated by the California Department of Public Health (State Health) and the United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). Testing shows that our water meets or exceeds all State and Federal drinking water standards.
To see the results of our most recent analyses, go to the Drinking Water Quality Report or call us at 1-800-DIAL-DWP (1-800-342-5397) to request a copy. Or visit our Water Quality Office at the LADWP John Ferraro Building between the hours of 7:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. to pick up a copy of the report. Our office is located directly across from the Los Angeles County Music Center at 111 North Hope Street, Room 1201, Los Angeles, California 90012.
A: Yes. Your tap water contains disinfectants for your protection, but these disinfectants can kill fish. The water can contain either chlorine or chloramine. Both disinfectants can be neutralized by adding the appropriate chemicals which are available at most pet stores. Granular activated carbon (GAC) water filters will effectively remove both chlorine and chloramine.
Most fish, particularly tropical fish and koi, are also sensitive to rapid changes in the temperature or pH of the water - even small changes. If you are going to change the water in an aquarium or pond, or add a significant amount of new water, consult an experienced fish care expert for tips on how to make changes without harming your fish.
You may be concerned that water harmful to fish might not be safe for you to drink. Don’t worry. Humans and fish use water in very different ways. When we drink water, the chlorine or chloramine is neutralized by our digestive system before it enters our bloodstream. When fish "breathe" water, any chlorine or chloramine present enters their bloodstream directly. This interferes with the fish's ability to take oxygen from the water and can cause the fish to suffocate.
A: Water hardness varies greatly throughout the City of Los Angeles because we have several different sources of water. Most areas of the City can receive any of our water supplies during major repairs, maintenance, or unusual events like natural disasters.
The following information is from 2022
| Hardness values by Water Quality Areas | Average | Range |
| San Fernando Valley and Western Los Angeles | 8.6 grains per gallon (147 mg/L as CaCO3) |
5.4 – 16.1 grains per gallon (93 – 275 mg/L as CaCO3) |
| Silver Lake, Downtown and South Los Angeles | 9.8 grains per gallon (168 mg/L as CaCO3) |
5.4 – 17.0 grains per gallon (93– 291 mg/L as CaCO3) |
| Eastern Los Angeles and the Harbor | 16.3 grains per gallon (279 mg/L as CaCO3) |
16.1 – 16.4 grains per gallon (275 – 281 mg/L as CaCO3) |
There are two units of measurement for hardness commonly used in the United States, grains per gallon and milligrams per liter as calcium carbonate (mg/L as CaCO3). One grain per gallon is equal to 17.1 mg/L as CaCO3. Please note that one milligram per liter (mg/L) is essentially the same as one part per million (ppm) at these low concentrations.
Here is a guide for water hardness, in grains per gallon:
- Less than 4 = Soft
- 4 - 7 = Medium-hard
- Greater than 7 = hard
Dissolved minerals in water make can make it “hard” (or difficult) to make lather or suds. As the amount of minerals in the water increases, the water becomes “harder.” Two common minerals found in drinking water are calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate. There is usually far more calcium carbonate than magnesium carbonate present in water. So, water hardness is reported as the amount of calcium carbonate (CaCO3) dissolved in the water.
Softening Your Water
Water softening is the process of removing the minerals from the water and is commonly accomplished by either reverse osmosis filtration or ion exchange. Reverse osmosis filtration units can handle only small volumes of water and is usually performed at a single point of use, such as at the kitchen sink. Ion exchange units can handle large volumes of water and are usually installed on the incoming water supply line to a property. Ion exchange systems exchange sodium ions for the calcium and magnesium ions in the water.
Even the hardest water supplied by the LADWP does not need to be softened to make it safe or usable. In fact, medical studies show that people who live in areas with hard water have reduced occurrences of cardiovascular illness compared to people who live in areas with soft water. The series entitled “Drinking Water and Health” contains a summary of more than 50 studies that support this statement. The report was published by the National Academy of Sciences in Washington, D.C. The minerals dissolved in water may also play an important part in maintaining the proper electrolyte balance in your body's cells. You should consult your physician before making artificially softened water your primary source of drinking water. Some people soften only the hot water so they gain some of the advantages of soft water while keeping the minerals in the cold (drinking) water.
Below are some advantages and disadvantages of softened water to assist you in deciding whether or not softened water is right for you.
Advantages
- Your hair and skin often feel softer after bathing or washing.
- You use less dish washing and laundry detergent.
- Less mineral deposit formation in plumbing, water heaters, and pots and pans.
- Fewer water spots on air-dried dishes and automobile finishes.
Disadvantages
- Increased sodium content in the water (With some ion exchange systems).
- Softened water is more corrosive to plumbing which may increase the amounts of lead and copper in the water.
Softening the water in older plumbing systems that have not previously been softened might cause deposited minerals to break loose from the pipes. These chunks of minerals can clog inlet screens to dish and clothes washing machines, showerheads, as well as the screens (called aerators) at the ends of the water faucets.
A: Fluoride occurs naturally in the City’s water at levels ranging from 0.3 to 0.6 parts per million (ppm), depending on the water source. On August 10, 1999, we began community water fluoridation – the process of adjusting fluoride levels in the water supply to the optimal level necessary to help prevent tooth decay. We adjust the level to 0.7 ppm, the optimal level recommended by public health experts.
For more information on water fluoridation watch this short video, or go to Fact Sheets & Brochures for more in-depth information.
A: No. The water we deliver to you has no lead. We test the water regularly and find no detectable amounts of lead in any of our water sources or in the distribution system. To see the results of our most recent analyses, please go to the Drinking Water Quality Report.
However, there are two potential sources of lead in tap water. The most common source of lead is your faucet. Some manufacturers previously used metal alloys that contain a significant amount of lead. When water remains in the faucet, without being used for several hours, lead from the faucet can dissolve into the water. Then, when you turn the faucet on, the water that comes out for the first 20 or 30 seconds may contain lead. Similarly, copper pipes joined with lead-based solder in your plumbing system, is another potential source of lead. This source should not be significant if your home was built after 1990, because lead-based solders were banned in the United States in 1986.
A list of National Sanitation Foundation (NSF) approved lead-free water faucets and plumbing materials is available by contacting the NSF Consumer Affairs or 1-800-673-6275. Also, check that any faucet you are planning to purchase is NSF approved.
If you would like to test the water in your home or business, services are available from private laboratories for a fee. A lead test usually costs around $50. You can obtain references for qualified laboratories by contacting the California State Water Resources Control Board, Laboratory Accreditation Program at (916) 323-3431.
A: It is extremely rare to actually have sand in your drinking water. Almost always what appears to be sand is actually something else.
The material most commonly mistaken for sand is a combination of calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate – often referred to as pipe scale. These are naturally occurring minerals and are found in varying concentrations in most waters around the world. The amount of these minerals in the water determines the hardness of the water; higher amounts of minerals make the water harder. For more information about water hardness, please see the question: How hard is my water and should I use a water softener?
Over time, these minerals can deposit on the inside of your pipes and then begin to flake off. Although this process usually occurs slowly, over a long period of time, there are three common circumstances that can cause it to happen rapidly:
If your water was turned off for repair work (either by you or us), the pressure and turbulence created when it is turned back on can dislodge the mineral deposits from the pipes.
If the water supplied by us becomes softer or if you add a water softener to your plumbing system, the softer water can begin to re-dissolve the minerals on the pipes and pieces may begin to break loose.
If you have galvanized steel pipes, they will corrode over time. As they corrode, they swell up on the inside causing these built-up minerals to flake off.
These are all common causes of pipe scale in the water and account for most of the complaints about sand in the water. Although pipe scale is not a health concern, it can be a nuisance by clogging inlet screens to washing machines, showerheads, and faucet aerators (the screen that screws on to the end of the water faucet). There is no practical way to remove pipe scale from the inside of your pipes; if the problem is severe, you may want to consider re-piping.
Another way for these minerals to form a sand like solid happens in the water heater. As the water is heated, the minerals begin to come out of the water forming deposits. As you use the hot water, these deposits can be carried along clogging the inlet screens of washing machines, showerheads, and faucet aerators. To keep mineral deposits from accumulating in the water heater, flush it at least once a year. Flushing the water heater regularly also extends the life of the heater and makes it operate more efficiently. For instructions on how to flush your water heater, go to How to Flush a Water Heater.
Another common material often mistaken for sand is water softener resin beads. Inside a water softener are many small round beads. The screen that keeps the beads in the tank can break, releasing them into your water. These beads vary in size and color depending on the manufacturer; however, a commonly used bead is very small and tan in color and can be mistaken for sand. If you see that the "sand" is uniform in size, shape, and color and you have a water softener call your service agent for repairs.
A: There are three major types of colored particles that you might find in your water. These particles are usually plumbing related.
Black Particles
Black particles come from four potential sources: a steel pipe, a water filter, a faucet washer or gasket, or a flexible supply line hose.
Particles from a steel pipe are discussed in more detail under the brown or orange particles section of this question.
If the particles are very hard, similar in size and shape, and might be described as large coffee grounds, they are probably granular activated carbon (GAC) from the inside of a GAC water filter. To correct this problem, replace the filter cartridge. You may want to contact the manufacturer or place of purchase for a suitable replacement cartridge.
If the particles are solid but rubbery in texture, they could be pieces of a disintegrating faucet washer or gasket. If this is the problem, the particles would likely only be present at one faucet and that faucet might be leaking. To fix this problem, replace the faucet washers and/or the packing at the ends of the supply lines.
If the particles are small black specs that might be described as being oily or sooty in texture, they are probably from the inside of a flexible hose. The interior of these hoses are made of black rubber but they are covered with a braided stainless steel mesh. Over time, the chlorine or chloramine in the water causes the rubber to break down. These hoses are commonly used to connect water fixtures to the water supply. To remedy this problem, simply replace the hose. Newer flex hoses have water disinfection resistant lining (clearly advertised on the label).
Brown or Orange Particles
Brown or orange particles are usually small pieces of rusted steel that have broken off the inside of your water pipes or the water main in the street. These particles are very hard, irregular in size and shape, and can be several different colors (including black). They consist of mostly iron and are not a health concern but they can be a nuisance if they clog your washing machine screens, shower heads, and/or the screens at the ends of your faucets (called aerators). If the water is clear with these particles in it, they probably came from the inside of your pipes. If the particles come from the water main, the water will usually be discolored for a few hours as well.
Another common source of brown or orange particles in the water is a broken water softener. Inside a water softener are many small round beads. The screen that keeps these beads in the tank can break, releasing them into your water. These beads vary in size and color depending on the manufacturer; however, some commonly used beads are about the size of fish eggs and are brown or orange in color. If you see that these particles are uniform in size, shape, and color and you have a water softener call your service agent for repairs.
White or Tan Particles
White or tan particles usually come from one of three places in your home: the inside of your pipes, the water heater, or a water softener.
White particles can be pipe scale (calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate). Tan particles are usually a combination of pipe scale and corrosion from your plumbing. Calcium and magnesium carbonates are naturally occurring minerals found in varying concentrations in most waters around the world. The amount of these minerals determines the hardness of the water. Higher mineral concentrations make the water harder. For more information about water hardness, please see the question: How hard is my water and should I use a water softener?
Over time, these minerals can deposit on the inside of your pipes and then begin to flake off. Although this process usually occurs slowly, over a long period of time, there are three common circumstances that can cause it to happen rapidly;
- If your water was turned off for repair work (either by you or us), the pressure and turbulence created when it is turned back on can dislodge the mineral deposits from the pipes.
- If the water supplied by us becomes softer or if you add a water softener to your plumbing system, the softer water can begin to re-dissolve the minerals from the pipes and pieces may begin to break loose.
- If you have galvanized steel pipes, they will corrode over time. As they corrode, they swell up on the inside causing these built-up minerals to flake off.
These are all common causes of pipe scale in the water and account for many of the complaints about white or tan particles in the water. Although pipe scale is not a health concern, it can be a nuisance by clogging inlet screens to washing machines, shower heads, and faucet aerators (the screen that screws on to the end of the water faucet). There is no practical way to remove pipe scale from the inside of your pipes; if the problem is severe, you may want to consider re-piping.
Another source of these white or tan particles is the water heater. As the water is heated, the minerals begin to drop out of the water forming white or tan sand-like deposits. As you use the hot water, these minerals can be carried along clogging the inlet screens in washing machines, shower heads, and faucet aerators. To keep these deposits from accumulating in the water heater, flush it at least once a year. Flushing the water heater regularly also extends the life of the heater and makes it operate more efficiently. For instructions on how to flush your water heater, go to How to Flush a Water Heater.The water heater can also add floating white particles to the water. Some water heaters contain a plastic dip tube. The dip tube is an extension to the inlet of the water supply. The tube is on the inside of the heater and allows the cold incoming water to enter the tank at the bottom. As the tube gets old, it can get brittle causing little pieces to break off and show up as white particles in the hot water. These pieces vary in size and will break apart fairly easily. They can have a faint bluish-green tint to them (from copper plumbing), but they are mostly white. To address this problem, contact the manufacturer for advice.
White or tan particles can actually be water softener resin beads. Inside a water softener are many small round beads. The screen that keeps the beads in the tank can break, releasing them into your water. These beads vary in size and color depending on the manufacturer; however, two commonly used beads are very small and are white or tan in color. If you see that the particles are uniform in size, shape, and color and you have a water softener call your service agent for repairs.
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A: Sometimes the problem may be with odor rather than taste. Often it is very difficult to separate taste from odor because these two human senses are so closely related.
Diagnosing Taste or Odor Problems
If you ever notice an unusual taste or odor in your water, it’s a good idea to try to determine the source. In general, there are three places a taste or odor can originate:
Water Supply
On occasion, the water supply may have a taste or odor problem. If the water supply is the source of the taste or odor, all the water fixtures in your home or business will be affected. As a way to confirm this, get a clean drinking glass and go to your front hose faucet, or whichever faucet is closest to your water meter, which may be in the front or back of your property. This faucet is usually near the main water shut-off valve for the property (commonly called the wheel valve) and in line with the water meter. Run the water at that faucet for a full two minutes. Check the time, two minutes is a long time. After the two minutes take off the hose, if one is attached. Fill the clean glass with water from that faucet. If the taste or odor is present in this sample, it’s most likely the water supply. If the supply is the source of the taste or odor call 1-800-DIAL-DWP (1-800-342-5397). If the taste or odor is not present in this sample the problem is most likely plumbing related. Please note: in parts of the Westside of the City, notably Venice, the mains are actually located at the rear of the property, in the alley.
Premise Plumbing
Sometimes, premise (internal or property) plumbing causes problems. Many copper re pipe businesses will assure you of this. Even though they may make these problems sound worse than they are, they may have a point. Premise plumbing can rust, and sometimes organic matter will accumulate in the pipes and affect the taste or odor of the water. If your plumbing is the source of an odor, go to How to Flush Household Pipes.
Environment
Sometimes a perceived taste or odor problem is not in the water at all. It may be in the immediate area, but is associated with the water. The most common problem is what we call “drain odor”. Over time organic matter (such as hair, soap, and food waste) can accumulate on the walls of the drain. Bacteria can grow on these organic deposits. As the bacteria grow and multiply, they produce gases which can smell unpleasant. These gases accumulate in the drain until you turn the water on. As the water runs down the drain, the gases are displaced into the air around the drain. It is natural to assume the odor is coming from the water because you only smell it when you turn the water on. To confirm the odor isn’t in the water, fill a clean glass with water from the fixture where you notice the odor, after running the water for a minute, and take it completely out of the room. Smell the water again. If the odor is not present in the sample, then the odor is probably drain related and you may want to consider disinfecting the drain. For instructions, go to How to Disinfect a Drain.
A: During an emergency, such as a major earthquake or other catastrophic event, the water supply may be disrupted or we may be required to issue a "boil water notice" until we can verify that the water is not contaminated and is safe to use. Having a back-up water supply should be a part of every emergency preparedness kit. Enough water should be stored for each member of the household, office, or other location. Allow for a minimum of 1.0 gallon per person per day for drinking, food preparation, and sanitation. Remember to include water for pets.
The instructions below are for the preparation of water for emergency storage during non-emergency situations. For more complete information on the treatment and storage of water in emergency situations, go to Improving Water Quality at Home.
Storing Purchased Water
Bottled water purchased at grocery stores can be stored for up to a year. The bottles should be stored in a cool dark place and should not be exposed to sunlight, fumes of petroleum products, or pesticides/herbicides. Do not place anything heavy on top of the water containers. Do not store directly on concrete. They should be checked periodically to insure that the plastic has not cracked or developed leaks.
Storing Tap Water
Storing tap water for emergency use is a bit more work but is very inexpensive. The storage containers must be sanitized and the water should be changed out every six (6) months.
Sanitizing the containers:
- It’s best to use containers made of heavy opaque plastic with screw-on caps. Plastic milk and orange juice containers are very thin and tend to crack and leak as they get old. Also these containers often have snap-on lids that do not seal as well as screw-on caps.
- Wash the containers with hot soapy water.
- Rinse thoroughly.
- Add a quart of water to the container and one teaspoon of bleach. Caution: do not use scented laundry bleach, powdered bleach, or swimming pool chlorine - these contain additional chemicals that are poisonous. Cap the container. Swish the sanitizing solution in the container so that it touches all surfaces.
- Pour the bleach-water into the next container to be sanitized. The same sanitizing bleach-water can be used for several containers. REMEMBER – This is not drinking water so pour it down drain when finished.
- Rinse the sanitized container with clean water.
Filling the container:
- Fill the rinsed sanitized container with tap water. Leave a small air space at the top of the container to allow for expansion if the water heats up slightly when you store it.
- Put the cap on tightly.
- Write the date on the on the container so you know when you filled it.
Storing the Water
The water containers should be stored in a cool dark place and should not be exposed to sunlight, fumes of petroleum products, or pesticides/herbicides. Do not place anything heavy on top of the water containers. Do not store directly on concrete. They should be checked periodically to ensure that the plastic has not cracked or developed leaks. If the containers have cracked or leak, replace them.
Remember to change the water in the containers every six (6) months.
A: High levels of copper present in the water may cause blond hair to turn green. This happens when the concentration of copper is greater than 0.3 parts per million and the hair cuticle is damaged by physical factors (e.g., brushing, hot drying, and sun exposure) and/or chemical factors (e.g., peroxide bleaching, permanent waving, use of alkaline or tar shampoos, and exposure to chlorinated water).
The cuticular damage opens up a pathway for the copper in the water. A study has shown that damaged hair will adsorb 3 times more copper than undamaged hair. The green discoloration is more apparent on people with blonde, gray, or white hair. People with dark hair may have the same copper concentrations as those with blonde hair, but the color change would not be as apparent.
Copper in swimming pools and tap water:
- Algaecides used in swimming pools may contain copper as the active ingredient.
- A decrease in pH causes leaching of the copper and brass piping and pool equipment. Intermittent operation of pumps coupled with pool skimmers can cause low pH slugs.
- Concentrations of copper in tap water accumulate over time as the water is replenished in pools (due to losses from evaporation and splashing).
- Electrical grounds to copper water piping coupled with sufficient electrical current may dissolve more copper into the water.
- High concentrations of copper may be present when stagnates in plumbing fixtures for several hours. Flushing out the water by running the faucet from 1-5 minutes can help alleviate this build up.
Tips to Prevent Green Hair:
- Keep pool conditions at levels recommended by pool professionals
- pH between 7.2 and 7.8
- Free available chlorine at 3.0 to 5.0 mg/L
- Use swimmers’ shampoos and conditioners.
- Do not use alkaline shampoos.
- Use a swim cap to prevent the chlorine from damaging the hair.
- After taking a swim, do not allow the hair to dry. Wash immediately with shampoo.
- Limit over-processing of the hair (e.g., brushing when wet, blow drying, bleaching)
Remedies for Green Hair
- Use shampoos containing edetic acid (EDTA). These products are intended to recondition overbleached or discolored hair, or hair overexposed to the sun and salt water.
- Treat the hair with D-penicillamine-containing shampoo. A 250-mg capsule dissolved in 5 mL of water and 5 mL of shampoo followed by a bottled water rinse. The treatment is effective within a few days.
- Bleach the affected area with 3% hydrogen peroxide. Bleaching lightens hair color and produces cuticular damage making the hair prone to future copper adsorption.
A: Brown, orange, red, or yellow water are all caused by iron rust in the water. The different colors indicate the extent of the “rusting” process (oxidation) of the iron. There are two potential sources of rusty water: our water main or your plumbing.
Water Main
There is a fine, brown sediment that accumulates at the bottom of some of our water mains over the years. The sediment is mostly rust from the inside walls of the water main. Normally this rusty sediment remains undisturbed at the bottom of the main. If an unusual flow of water through the main occurs, this sediment can become disturbed and temporarily suspended in the water causing a brown, red, orange, or yellow color. Unusual water flows are commonly caused by; a broken water main, work on a water main, a fire hydrant being knocked off its base in an accident, or by use of a fire hydrant. This type of disturbance usually lasts about four hours. In time, the sediment will settle back out and the water will clear. This rusty water is not a health concern. If you, your child, or your pet should happen to drink some of the rusty water, it will not make you sick. However, it would be unpleasant, so it’s best to wait a few hours for the water to clear before using it.
During a main disturbance:
- Do not do laundry, as the rust can stain clothing. If you were doing laundry, it may be necessary to re-wash the load. Remove the laundry from the machine and keep it wet. When the water clears, fill the machine with clean water and expel one washer full using the spin cycle. Rewash the laundry using a rust stain remover or regular detergent - DO NOT USE CHLORINE BLEACH. Chlorine reacts with the iron and can form a permanent stain.
- Do not use hot water. Using hot water will draw cold, rusty water into your hot water tank and may have to flush it out later.
Plumbing
The other source of brown, red, orange, or yellow water is rusty premise (internal or property) plumbing. There are two commonly used water pipes: copper and galvanized steel. Copper pipes are usually considered to be better. They last longer and generally do not significantly affect water quality as they age. They are also more expensive than galvanized steel pipes, so the steel pipe is still often used. On average, galvanized steel pipes will last about 20 years before you begin seeing signs of rust. Well-made galvanized pipe can last as long as 40 years, while poorly-made pipe can show signs of corroding in just a few years.
If your water is being discolored by old, rusty pipes, the only permanent solution is to replace them. Replacing only some of the pipes can improve the problem, or it can actually make it worse. If some of the old steel pipes are replaced with new copper pipes and the two different metals are connected directly together, the copper can cause the steel to rust even more than before the replacement. This process can be avoided with the use of a proper dielectric coupling between the two dissimilar pipes. Consult a reliable retailer of plumbing materials or an experienced plumber. Water that is being discolored by rusty pipes is not a health concern; however, it is an indication that the pipes are corroding and they can eventually begin leaking.
Determining the Source of the Problem
The first step in solving a brown, orange, red, or yellow water problem is to determine if the problem is water main or plumbing related.
Here are some common characteristics of a water main disturbance:
- The water was clear earlier but all-of-a-sudden, it’s discolored.
- Only the cold water is suddenly discolored.
- The water is discolored at all water fixtures on the property and does not clear or improve after the water has been run for several minutes.
Here are common characteristics of plumbing corrosion:
- The water is discolored every morning or when first used after several hours of non-use, but eventually clears.
- The water clears after it has run for a few minutes.
- The discoloration is only at one or several water fixtures, but not all of them.
- The discoloration is only in the hot water.
If you are not sure if the discolored water is due to plumbing corrosion, check the water supply to the property. You can do this by taking a large white container and going to the water faucet (hose bib) at the front of the property. This faucet is usually near the main water shut-off valve for the property (commonly called the wheel valve) and in line with the water meter. Turn the water on wide-open and run it for a full two minutes. Check the time; two minutes is a long time. After the two minutes, fill the container with water. If the water is clear at this front faucet, the problem is likely being caused by your plumbing and you should consult a plumber. Please note: in parts of the Westside of the City, notably Venice, the mains are actually located at the rear of the property, in the alley.
If the water at the front faucet is discolored after running for the two minutes, the problem may be coming from our water main and you can contact us at 1-800-DIAL-DWP (1-800-342-5397).
A: Green water may be caused by algae in the water supply. Algae are single-celled plants that readily grow in bodies of fresh water. Algae are not a health concern; in fact, you can buy dried algae in some health food stores as a nutritional supplement. We manage and monitor our reservoirs very carefully to prevent algae from growing to the point where it discolors the water, but on rare occasions, the algae can multiply very quickly. If an algae bloom occurs in one of our reservoirs or along the California Aqueduct, it can take several weeks to get under control.
Another cause of green water is extreme copper plumbing corrosion. If this is happening, the water will usually have a bluish-green tint and may leave a bluish-green stain on porcelain if the water drips from a faucet. This copper corrosion can be caused by your electrical system being grounded to your water pipes; especially if you have a mixture of pipe material (e.g. some copper and some galvanized steel). If the green color is only in the hot water, it may be due to the temperature on the water heater being set too high. If you have a hot water circulating system, the return line may be too small or the water may be pumped too fast for your pipe size, or it may be installed incorrectly.
Green water can also be caused by dezincification of bronze alloys found in valves, water pumps, and water pump parts. This problem can occur in high-rise buildings and large industrial properties where the water is pumped to storage tanks.
If you are not sure if the green water is due to your plumbing, check the water supply. You can do this by taking a large white container and going to the water faucet (hose bib) at the front of the property. This faucet is usually near the main water shut-off valve for the property (commonly called the wheel valve) and in line with the water meter. Turn the water on wide-open and run it for a full two minutes. Check the time; two minutes is a long time. After the two minutes, fill the container with water. If the water is clear at this front faucet, the problem is likely being caused by your plumbing and you should consult a plumber. Some copper corrosion problems can be very complex and may require consulting a corrosion expert. Corrosion experts can be found in The Blue Book of Building and Construction under corrosion control. Please note that in parts of the Westside of the City, notably Venice, the mains are actually located at the rear of the property, in the alley.
If the water at the front tap is green after running for two minutes, the problem may be coming from our water supply and you should contact us at 1-800-DIAL-DWP (1-800-342-5397).
A: Having blue water is rare. It can be caused by a leaking water valve in a toilet where you are using a blue colored toilet tank/bowl cleaning system (such as drop-in pellets or a hanging bottle in the tank). This usually happens when the toilet is upstairs and the water supply has been shut off for some reason.
Another cause of blue water is due to extreme copper plumbing corrosion. If this is happening, the water will usually have a bluish-green tint and/or will leave a bluish-green stain on porcelain if the water drips from a faucet. This copper corrosion can be caused by your electrical system being grounded to your water pipes; especially if you have a mixture of pipe material (e.g. some copper and some galvanized steel). If the blue color is only in the hot water, it may be due to the temperature on the water heater being set too high. If you have a hot water circulating system, the return line may be too small or the water may be pumped too fast for your pipe size, or it may be installed incorrectly.
Blue water can also be caused by dezincification of bronze alloys found in valves, water pumps, and water pump parts. This problem can occur in high-rise buildings and large industrial properties where the water is pumped to storage tanks.
If you are not sure if the blue water is due to your plumbing, check the water supply. You can do this by taking a large white container and going to the water faucet (hose bib) at the front of the property. This faucet is usually near the main water shut-off valve for the property (commonly called the wheel valve) and in line with the water meter. Turn the water on wide-open and run it for a full two minutes. Check the time; two minutes is a long time. After the two minutes, fill the container with water. If the water is clear at this front faucet, the problem is likely being caused by your plumbing and you should consult a plumber. Some copper corrosion problems can be very complex and may require consulting a corrosion expert. . Corrosion experts can be found in The Blue Book of Building and Construction under corrosion control. Please note: in parts of the Westside of the City, notably Venice, the mains are actually located at the rear of the property, in the alley.
If the water at the front tap is blue after running for two minutes, the problem may be coming from our water supply and you should contact us at 1-800-DIAL-DWP (1-800-342-5397).
A: Milky white water, also commonly described as cloudy, hazy, soapy, or foamy, is almost always caused by air in the water. One of the many properties of water is its ability to dissolve gases - including air. The air comes back out of the water in the form of thousands of tiny bubbles; which gives the water a milky white or cloudy appearance.
Simple Test
Here’s a simple test you can do to see if the white milky water is due to air: fill a clear glass with the water. Observe the glass of water for 2 or 3 minutes. If the white milky water is due to air, the water will begin to clear at the bottom of the glass; then gradually clear all the way to the top. The water clears in this way because the tiny air bubbles creating the milky appearance are “escaping” the water at the surface. Eventually almost all of the bubbles are gone, except for a few that adhere to the sides of the glass and the water is clear. This is a natural phenomenon. The water is safe to use. If the water begins to clear at the top of the glass or does not clear after 10 minutes, then the cloudiness is due to particles suspended in the water. If this occurs, contact us at 1-800-DIAL-DWP (1-800-342-5397).
Causes
Milky white water often occurs in the spring time when the weather begins to warm, or anytime there is a significant heat wave, or whenever the water has been turned off for repairs. Cold water holds more dissolved air than warm water. In the spring, the water supply in our reservoirs is cold and contains a relatively large amount of dissolved air. As the water moves through the water mains in the street and to your pipes, it begins to warm up and lose some of its ability to keep the air dissolved. However, because the water is under pressure in the pipes, the air remains in the water. When you relieve the pressure by opening the faucet and filling your glass with water, the air is now free to escape from the water, giving it the milky appearance. This same set of circumstances is also why you occasionally see that your hot water is cloudy. When this phenomenon occurs in our system, it will usually last anywhere from several days to weeks, depending on many factors.
Similarly, when the water is shut off for water main repairs or your water is shut off to have work done on your plumbing; air can get into the water main or your pipes. When the water pressure is restored, some of that trapped air dissolves into the water. When you relieve the pressure by opening a faucet the air is now free to escape, again, giving it a milky white or cloudy appearance. Milky white water due to plumbing repairs is usually short lived.
If your water is milky white or cloudy in appearance and it does not clear in a glass after 10 minutes, please call us at 1-800-DIAL-DWP (1-800-342-5397).
A: The average person will likely be able to detect a slight chlorinous odor (or taste) in the water served in some parts of the City, however, the odor or taste should never be overwhelming. We are in the process of expanding the use of chloramine to our entire water system to improve taste and odor, and to comply with more stringent water quality regulations. For more information on chloramine, go to Fact Sheets & Brochures.
There are two common causes for a chlorinous, bleachy, chemical, or medicinal odor or taste in the water: the chlorine that we add to the water or the interaction of that chlorine with a build-up of organic material in your plumbing system. It is helpful to identify the source in finding a solution.
Here are two characteristics of a supply related odor:
- The odor occurs at all the water fixtures on the property.
- The odor persists no matter how long the water is run.
Here are two characteristics of a plumbing related odor:
- The odor occurs in only one or several, but not all, of the water fixtures on the property.
- The odor is not noticeable after running the water for a few minutes.
If you are not certain of the source, check the water supply to the property. To check the water supply, take a clean glass and go to the water faucet (hose bib) at the front of property. This faucet is usually near the main water shut-off valve for the property (commonly called the wheel valve) and in line with the water meter. Turn the water on wide-open and run it for a full two minutes. Check the time; two minutes is a long time. After the two minutes, disconnect the water hose if there is one attached and sample the water. Drinking water that has traveled through a garden hose is not recommended. Please note: in parts of the Westside of the City, notably Venice, the mains are actually located at the rear of the property, in the alley.
If the odor seems overpowering or bleachy after running this test, contact us at 1-800-DIAL-DWP (1-800-342-5397). If the water is much better at the front faucet than at the fixtures on the property, flushing your plumbing is recommended. For instructions, go to How to Flush Household Pipes.
A: Poly and Per- fluoroalkyl Substances (PFAS) are a group of thousands of different synthetic (human made) chemicals developed in the 1940s for use in the manufacture of a variety of goods like carpeting, packaging (including food packaging), non-stick cookware, paints, personal care products, and fire-retardant. PFAS are designed to make products more resistant to water, oil, stains, and heat. They have raised health and environmental concerns, and have been dubbed “forever chemicals” because they are difficult to break down.
There are thousands of PFAS, including six that have been regulated, or are being considered for regulation, on the federal and state level:
perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA),
perfluorooctanesulfonic acid (PFOS),
perfluorobutane sulfonic acid (PFBS),
perfluorohexane sulfonic acid (PFHxS),
perfluorononanoic acid (PFNA),
and hexafluoropropylene oxide (HFPO) aka GenX.
A: According to the United States Environmental Protection Agency (U.S. EPA), PFAS can accumulate over time in a person’s body. Studies indicate potential health consequences from exposure to significant levels of PFAS. Health effects may include high cholesterol, liver and thyroid cancer, immunotoxicity, pregnancy-induced hypertension, low birth weights, and decreased fertility. Additional information about PFAS can be found on the EPA’s website at https://www.epa.gov/pfas.
A: PFAS can be present in food and beverages due to environmental contamination, processing equipment, and packaging. PFAS have been used to create consumer products that are non-stick, stain-repellant, or water-repellant. In circumstances where drinking water is contaminated with PFAS, it is typically due to source contamination from manufacturing, waste disposal facilities, or the use of fire-fighting foams.
A: Customers can be confident that Los Angeles Department of Water and Power (LADWP) is providing high quality drinking water. The six PFAS compounds that are currently regulated or being considered for regulation—PFOA, PFOS, PFBS, PFHxS, PFNA, and HFPO—have not been detected in the City of Los Angeles’ distribution system that provides our customers’ tap water. LADWP continues to serve customers high-quality drinking water that meets or exceeds all regulatory standards.
A: LADWP has been monitoring and testing for PFAS in its water sources and distribution system in accordance with federal and state guidance and industry standards. Our testing program reflects our commitment to maintaining the highest standards of water quality and safety for our customers. As we do with other potential contaminants, LADWP will test for and monitor PFAS while working with regulatory agencies to safeguard water quality. This includes coordinating with the California Division of Drinking Water (DDW) to monitor the City’s groundwater wells. LADWP also actively engages with peer utilities and leading researchers to stay at the forefront of effective PFAS treatment methods in drinking water and be prepared to respond effectively should the need ever arise in the future.
A: At the regulatory level, two PFAS compounds (PFOA and PFOS) have already been phased out of production in the United States, but consumer products fabricated using them are still imported from abroad. A comprehensive approach to mitigate harmful PFAS effects is being developed by the EPA, which includes proposed drinking water federal Maximum Contaminant Levels (MCLs). The proposed regulation would include specific monitoring, public notification, and treatment requirements for PFOA, PFOS, PFBS, PFHxS, PFNA, and HFPO, among others. In California, PFAS Notification Levels (NLs) and Response Levels (RLs) have been established, which describe actions that are taken when those levels are reached or exceeded. It is anticipated that state MCLs will be established by California after Public Health Goals (PHGs) are finalized. California PFAS regulatory limits may be the same or more stringent than federal requirements.
Additional Resources:
LADWP Water Quality Hotline: (213) 367-3182